Mounting a RACI finderscope on a collapsible tabletop telescope

I recently bought a Sky-Watcher Virtuoso GTi 150P tabletop 150mm (6-inch) telescope. This is a slightly larger variation, with a go-to mount, of a popular design sold by Astronomers Without Borders as the OneSky, a 130mm (5-inch) altitude-azimuth mounted collapsible tabletop telescope, shown at left.

These telescopes have a Vixen-style dovetail bar attached to the solid part of the tube—the green thing in the pictures of my telescope below. This is how the tube attaches to the mount, which has a Dobsonian style groundboard for the azimuth (side to side) axis and a half-fork with dovetail saddle for the altitude (up and down) axis. The tube can be removed from the saddle and clamped back on with a single threaded knob, the knob sticking up from the blue tube in the picture of the OneSky, making this portable design even more portable.

The problem

For finding objects, or in the case of the go-to model, aligning the mount or finding objects when the go-to isn't cutting it, the scopes are equipped with a straight-through red dot finder that projects a red dot on a window in front of the stars. A clever design with many variations, but like some people, I have trouble—no, make that pain—bending my neck enough to comfortably look through one, especially at objects high in the sky. 

On my other two scopes I have added azimuth circles and a digital angle gauge to find objects by looking up their alt-az coordinates in an app like Sky Safari Pro, moving the scope so that the coordinates are set on the azimuth circle and the gauge, and then using a right angle correct image (RACI) finderscope to zero in on the target. A RACI finder doesn’t require neck contortions and shows a correctly oriented view like you would see in binoculars.

I wanted to add a RACI finder to the Sky-Watcher tabletop telescope, but the problem is that the front ring that holds the secondary mirror and focuser is extended out on two truss tubes so that the whole front half can collapse into the solid rear half that holds the primary mirror, making it quite compact. There is no good place to add a finder on the front ring and it would make the scope quite front-heavy, requiring some sort of counterweight for manual operation. Others have added reinforcement to the front plastic ring or have drilled holes in the tube to add a finderscope, but I didn’t want to do either of these things. 

The solution

I added a universal dovetail shoe (base) to a block of wood attached to the scope's dovetail bar (the green thing) and swap my RACI finder between my 4.5-inch and this telescope. Looking at the design, the long dovetail bar attached to the telescope tube has two channels that run its length and a single 1/4-20 threaded hole close to the front end of the bar. The hole is presumably for mounting on a tripod, but it’s at a very poor location for balance. I had seen others mount a laser pointer and finder on that part of the dovetail bar, so I experimented with mounting a Svbony SV182 6x30 RACI finder that I have on my 4.5-inch reflector. I zip tied it in place to see how it worked. The problem was that, sticking out straight from the dovetail bar, the finder was too far from the observer’s position and I had to get up and either lean over or walk around the back of the scope to the other side to use it.

If I were to fasten a block of wood to the end of the dovetail bar at a 90 degree angle, then I could mount the RACI finder on the end of it, bringing the eyepiece to a much better position, even better than if I had drilled a couple of holes in the solid tube to mount it. After doing just that, I noted a post on the OneSky megathread on Cloudy Nights that did something similar, but by drilling and tapping a dovetail clamp instead of using a block of wood. Same end result.

Here’s how to do it

I cut all the pieces using a basic mitre box and a hand saw.

I cut a 5” piece of 2x2 baluster (vertical railing piece) that I had left over from making the legs for the telescope’s table mount. I cut a 45 degree corner on one end so I wouldn’t have a sharp corner sticking out. These balusters tend to vary slightly in cross section width, so I checked a few pieces before I found one where the dovetail finder shoe, or base, fits tightly in one direction—one more way to make it even more solid. Note: I used balusters rather than the 8’ lengths of 2x2 that they have because the balusters tend not to be as warped as the long pieces and they were actually cheaper per foot.

I glued and screwed two small pieces of wood to the block to sit in the bar channels and keep the block from rotating on the single bolt. I cut the two little pieces from a large size paint stirring stick (1/4” thick). The pieces are 7/16” wide and 2-1/4” long. I sanded them so they fit tightly into the bar channels.

This side will face the observer sitting at the telescope.

I dry fit the block and the two channel pieces to make sure they fit tightly in the dovetail bar. There are two screws in the dovetail bar at the bottom of each channel 1/8” from the front end of the bar. The block would need to sit behind these screws with the channel pieces butting up against them to add stability. I marked where the bolt would go through the block into the dovetail bar and also where I would need to glue the small channel pieces that would fit snugly into the two channels in the bar. I had cut them a little long just to give a bit more twist resistance in the channel.

Where the bolt would go through the block and screw into the dovetail bar, I countersank a 3/4” diameter hole about 3/16” deep, enough so the bolt head, with a 5/8” outer diameter - 1/4” inner diameter washer, would be flush or nearly flush with the surface, using a 3/4” Forstner bit. (3/4” because my wrench socket would fit in it so I could tighten the bolt.) You must do this before drilling the hole for the bolt so that the bit can center properly. It’s not essential to countersink the bolt head, but I thought it would be better than having it sticking out, and I recently got the Forstner bit set, so I’m eager to find reasons to use it! I then drilled a 1/4” hole all the way through the block, centered in the 3/4” countersunk hole.

I inserted the two little channel pieces into the channels and pushed them tight up against the screws in the bar channels. I inserted the bolt and tightened it to make sure the fit was good. Then I removed the bolt, put wood glue on the two channel pieces where they would join the block and bolted the block into place. Once the glue had dried for about 45 minutes, I removed the assembly and cleaned off some glue that got on the dovetail bar. It removes easily.

The dovetail shoe for the finder has four slots for screws. I screwed it into the top of the block with four 1-1/4” #6 wood screws. Everything looked good, so I took the shoe off the block assembly, painted the block assembly black, reattached the shoe, and attached the whole assembly to the dovetail bar. The shoe stays on the bar and the finderscope is removed for transport. This modification is also entirely reversible with no alteration to the telescope.

The finished mount. Note the four screws added to the channel bars. I found glue alone did not hold. Make sure you recess the screw heads into the wood with a countersink bit so they don't scrape the dovetail bar.

The finder is at a more comfortable, although still not optimum, location. I can also fit my head in there to use the red dot if necessary. The scope can rotate through the entire range of altitude motion without anything bumping or binding, but be careful when pointing above 50 degrees, as the additional weight of the finder will want to flip the tube backwards.

Packed up, the finder mount is out of the way and adds very little weight or volume to the overall package. Just loosen the two thumbscrews, slide the finderscope on, and tighten the thumbscrews. 

View from above when collapsed. The finderscope mount does not stick out beyond the round baseboard of the telescope mount. The dovetail shoe is mounted so that the thumbscrews point inward and are less likely to catch on a cover or other item.

Now I can use the RACI finder more easily and swap it between the two telescopes. It's still not an optimum viewing position especially at higher altitudes, although being able to rotate the diagonal on the finderscope helps. But for these collapsible telescopes, this makes a useful addition or alternative to the red dot finder.